Chiang Khong
5 July 2019.
Mekhong River
With only a night in Chiang Khong, I went to buy my overnight bus ticket to Bangkok for the next day at a Sombat Tour office that was around a half an hour walk away from Baanfaai Guesthouse and spent the rest of the day enjoying Chiang Khong’s street food.
Fried Kuay Teow, 50 baht. 1914 hr. This plate had to be the most overpriced and unpleasant experience simply because I was a foreigner. I had made an order in English and it wasn’t a good experience eating it taste wise and also especially when the cook himself, after whipping up my plate sat down with his friend at a table next to mine. His friend asked how much he had charged me for the Kuay Teow and was visibly appalled by the amount. Although I did not speak fluent Thai, I could understand the gist of the conversation and contemplated if I should retort back in the little Thai I knew. Eventually decided against it as I did not want unnecessary trouble on my journey.
6 July 2019.
The next morning, I decided to cycle around Chiang Khong before my overnight bus to Bangkok. I rented my bike from the guesthouse for 50 Baht and requested for a bicycle lock. The lady laughed at my suggestion. “This is Chiang Khong, don’t need, don’t need.” Recalling that my train ticket (Bangkok-Padang Besar) had been booked online from Baolau.com, I cycled into a local printing shop to print out the electronic ticket for boarding in a few days.
Muu Bing for Breakfast, 1106 hr. Strolling around town to find a pier.
The shopkeeper recommended me to cycle along the Mekhong River overlooking Laos. With the river just behind the main street of Chiang Khong city, there are many small roads that lead from the main street to the banks of the Mekhong River. Thai and Lao people are allowed to cross between the two countries by boat at these ports. A boat tour operator who was manning a fleet of small boats approached.
“Do you want to go on a boat ride along the Mekhong River?” he asked.
“No sir, I just arrived from Laos yesterday.” I replied.
“Ahh if you’re alone, its 300.”
“And how will the boat ride be like?”
He pointed to some areas of the Mekhong River that he usually brought tour groups to.
“That’s nice. Unfortunately I’m alone.”
“Yes, 300 for one person is indeed expensive. If more people, I charge 400, better for you.”
He seemed to understand that one wouldn’t spend 300 baht on a solo boat tour and made no further mention about the boat tour. When I later informed him that I was leaving, he wished me good luck which was somewhat heart-warming, especially since I did not take up his offer.
Huay Xai/ Bokeo across the Mekhong River. 1154 hr.
Overnight bus from Chiang Khong to Bangkok
Sombat Tour Office
Address: 1020 ตำบล เวียง อำเภอ เชียงของ เชียงราย 57140
Later that afternoon, I was scheduled to take an overnight bus to Bangkok. It is possible to reach Bangkok on a direct overnight bus from Chiang Khong without having to travel to either Chiangrai for a similar overnight bus or Chiangmai for the popular overnight train to Bangkok. Sombat Tour operates the Chiang Khong – Bangkok overnight route with the earliest bus leaving Chiang Khong at 1530. The journey takes 13 hours and the cost of the ticket is 643 Baht when bought over the counter though you can also choose to book it online at their website at a higher price.
My overnight bus was scheduled to leave Chiang Khong at 1600 and arrive at Bangkok’s Mo Chit 2 Bus Terminal at 0500 the next day. Before departure, the bus attendant would hand out water and bread to each passenger for the journey. He would also ask for your preferred stop in Bangkok though if you are going anywhere within Bangkok city, the bus will only stop at Mo Chit 2 Bus Terminal. The only other stop the bus appears to make for its passengers is at Rangsit, which is in the north outside of Bangkok city where most locals will alight to travel onward to other Thai provinces.
Bus ride includes a packaged snack and bottled water, 1532 hr.
The Sombat Tour bus felt incredibly spacious with ample leg room. Neckrests and blankets were provided. Whilst the bus left Chiang Khong with only two people on board, more passengers came on board as we travelled southwards through the evening. There was a ID check outside Theong at 1800 where Thai police asked to see our identifications. At 2315, the bus stopped for dinner at the company’s canteen.
The canteen was rather busy feeding the late night crowd who later shopped around for snacks and fruits that would sustain them for the rest of their overnight journeys. The meal was included within the ticket price, you could request for a hot meal by showing your bus ticket. Iced water was also available. At 2340, we gathered back on the bus for the ride to Bangkok.
Ovenright bus Canteen. 2334 hr.
The bus stopped at Rangsit at 0400, and subsequently Mochit 2 Bus Terminal at 0500 where the remaining passengers alighted. Mochit 2 Bus Terminal is located in the northern part of Bangkok and is also known as New Mochit Bus Terminal or Mochit Mai (ใหม่) in Thai. At 0500, the terminal was already crowded with passengers eating breakfast, freshening up at its public toilets whilst waiting to depart later that morning. Upon seeing my backpack, many songthaew and taxi drivers came forward to ask where I was headed, however I had already set my eyes on several “Bus to City” signs that would hopefully direct me to a domestic bus terminal.
7 July 2019.
Mochit 2 Bus Station. 0502 hr. Bus 49 goes towards Sriyaan, the district my next Guesthouse is located.
Other Notes for Chiang Khong:
Food
Breakfast:
Barbecued Pork on Stick: 5 Baht each
Sticky Rice: 5 Baht
Lunch and Dinner
Bowl of noodles/ rice: 35 – 40 Baht
Snacks
Usually around 10 Baht for chips and street snacks like fried wanton. Sweet milk drinks are priced at a regular 20 baht.
Water
From 6 baht for a 500ml bottle from 7-11
From 13 baht for a 1000ml bottle from 7-11
Local SIM
DTAC Happy Tourist SIM from 7-11: 299 Baht
Accomodation
150 Baht per night for a single room at Baanfai Guesthouse
120 Baht per night for a bed in a dormitory room shared with two others
Accomodation
Baanfai Guesthouse
Length of Stay: 1 Night
Type of Room: Single Room (150 Baht per night)
Address:
Towels: Provided
Air Conditioning: Fan
Bicycle Rental: Flat rate of 50 Baht per day
Location: The guesthouse is conveniently located along the main street of Chiang Khong city. Beside it is a temple and the nearest 7-11 store is just a 10 minute walk away and there are street food stalls aplenty just outside the guesthouse. However, if you would like to get to either the Chiang Khong Bus station or the Sombat Tour Office for coaches to other Thai cities, you can either walk there in around half an hour or take a songthaew for around 30 baht.
Notes for Thailand:
Travel within Thailand
Train
Train tickets can be purchased from Baolau.com or the official website of the State Railway of Thailand at thaiticketrailway.com.
For purchases on Baolau.com, do print out your electronic ticket which will be sent to you via email. This printout will be your boarding pass.
Interstate Coaches
You can either purchase directly from bus terminals or from the nearest office/ depot of a private bus operator. Reputable private VIP bus operators like Sombat Tour have their own bus depots, food center and offices throughout Thailand where you can purchase tickets directly from. Purchasing tickets over the counter has always been my preference due to its cheaper cost and relatively easier administrative procedures if I wish to either make cancellations or changes to my departure time. You can also purchase tickets with from the company website. Nakhon Chai Air is also a widely popular sleeper bus option which I have yet to try.
If you would like to purchase your tickets beforehand, you can do so via online ticketing platforms. Thai Ticketing Major (TTM) and busonlineticket.co.th are possible options.
Thai Ticketing Major (TTM)
http://www.thaiticketmajor.com/bus/ttmbus/index.php
Thai Ticket Major (TTM) is a major online ticketing platform that sells tickets to concerts and local events aside from bus ticketing. What I like about Thai Ticket Major (TTM) is that it has a rather comprehensive list of details for your desired bus journey. Bangkok has many bus terminals and TTM makes it extremely clear which bus terminal your bus leaves from. The downside is that tickets purchased online can neither be cancelled nor exchanged within 6 hours of departure time. Although you can make cancellations or changes to your departure time and date before 6 hours of departure time, you will have to do so in person over the counter which can be troublesome.
Once your online transaction is completed, you will have to print out the electronic ticket which will be sent to your email. On your day of departure, this printout will serve as your boarding pass.
If you are taking an overnight bus, a food and Beverage coupon is usually included in your electronic ticket which will come in handy when your bus stops at their allocated company canteen en route. As ticket details are mostly in Thai, it helps to ask around for confirmation if you’re unsure!